Double Paddage

Double Paddage

Friday, April 19, 2013

Checkerboard

I just accomplished one of my projects in Bishop, the beautiful and awe-inspiring line, Checkerboard. I wrote about it a bit the last post, but I shall go into more detail here. The holds are so beautiful and though they are crimpy, they feel good on the fingers.
Both holds are small and you have to hike your right foot up in this position
The first day of trying this problem the boulder was completely in the shade, so the holds were incredibly cold. I found myself getting to the last move 3 times and each time my fingers would feel numb. Some might say I punted off the top of the problem, though I honestly didn't know what hold to grab up there. After getting some advice from another climber, Sierra fired the climb first go. She was so psyched to climb it that she did it again almost immediately after coming down. Meanwhile, I was digesting my lunch of cheese, ham, turkey and milk and feeling really heavy. I was tired from trying it a bunch the day before, each go on it drains your energy like mad as there are about 16 moves in all. However, watching her accomplish it with such ease made me want to step up and try it again.

This time, unlike the others, the holds felt just cool to the touch, not cold, and as I went through the bottom sequence my fingers hurt but weren't numb. The climb doesn't feel like it has much of a crux on it, but rather it is the accumulation of a bunch of challenging moves on very small (but incut) holds that makes it feel so hard. On the first go of the day, I found myself getting ready for the last move. This time, though, I knew exactly where I wanted to grab.
Snatching the ear on the last hard move
Holding onto this little hold with the left hand is one of the coolest feelings. It is exactly the hold you want in exactly the right place. There is something mystical about how these holds all happen to be right where they are on this boulder to create such an amazing line and movement. In all, I am grateful that this line managed to exist in the first place, and that it was established by strong climbers before me. I am grateful for my friends to support me trying it and helping me to get psyched when I'm feeling heavy and tired. And lastly, I'm grateful to have climbed such an amazing boulder problem in a beautiful setting.

I can only describe the climb so much with words. Here are some moving pictures :)


Bonus!
Here's video of me climbing Go Granny Ho, a fun little V7 on the Grandma Peabody boulder including an attempt.

2 comments:

  1. In the second video, even though I knew you were going to get it, after the first attempt I kept thinking is he gonna to do it?? Is he gonna get back on the wall??? :) Nicely finished.

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