Checkerboard
Beefcake
Soul Slinger
I tried Checkerboard for the first time today and it is an absolutely beautiful climb. The photo below is of my friend, Sierra trying it. She got really close to finishing it many times today, all the way to the last hard move. It turns out that I had met Sierra years ago up in Squamish. I remember her trying and eventually succeeding to climb Sesame Street, a really challenging V9. Anyway, after getting the beta on Checkerboard down, myself, I got up to where she was getting 3 times and fell each time. Each time I was up that high, I wanted to make the last move a lock off, but I finally realized that I had to pop to reach that next hold. It is a heady last move and you're tired from a series of difficult crimp moves with high feet. It will go this trip. I believe it.
Crimpin' ain't easy. Checkerboard (V8) |
Lastly, Soul Slinger has always felt impossibly hard to me. I did battle with that climb 3 years ago and made little progress on it. I finally had a breakthrough a couple days ago when I moved off of the bad peanut pinch to a small dish above. I had never connected with that hold before and it felt really amazing, although that hold is utter crap. You have to then crimp really hard and slowly raise your right foot up and cross to a decent pinch before jumping to the hero bucket.
Some guy on the peanut pinch and slopey dish. |
Other momentous moments have been climbing and repeating Pow Pow. Flashing Rio's Crack, a stunning V6 in the Sads. Climbing Go Granny Go and Go Granny Ho, two fun climbs on the Grandma Peabody boulder. Trying and getting close on the Iron Fly Dyno. Going to the hot springs near Mammoth late at night with a nice couple from Denver. Turns out the guy, Greg Miller, was a former setter at Stone Gardens way back in the day. We reminisced about Seattle and Stoney G's together. Talking about all the good food and beer up there made me miss it all the more.
It's only been a week and a half, but it seems like ages. I've been meeting new, cool people all the time, though, and getting to hang out and just climb every day is a real treat. Maybe one of these days, I'll actually rest and then dispatch these projects. Until then, just gotta keep crankin'!
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